A RARE OPPORTUNITY TO WORK WITH A COUTURIER
Strictly limited spaces
Dates: Tuesday September 29th, October 6th & 13th
Time: 6:00 pm – 9:00 pm
Location: 92 Leveson St, North Melbourne 3051
Skill Level: Intermediate to advanced. Prior experience with garment construction and sewing required
Format: In-person, hands-on workshop
Best Suited To
This workshop is designed for sewists eager to develop their couture sewing and draping skills by working with cloth on the stand. It is ideal for:
• Intermediate to advanced sewists wanting to elevate the quality and finish of their work,
and learn more about couture drapo9ng techniques.
• Fashion students looking to develop professional-level couture dress making techniques
• Designers wanting to understand the inn r workings of making couture draped garments
• Anyone ready to move beyond standard garment sewing and master new artisanal couture techniques.
Your teacher:
Julie Goodwin is a classic couturier with a passion for tailoring and refined craftsmanship, a passionate educator and mentor.
From her Albert Park studio in Melbourne, she creates bespoke women’s garments with precision and care, designed to last a lifetime. 25 years in the industry as one of Melbourne’s most renowned artisans.
Overview
This masterclass focuses on the physical, hands-on process of sculpting fabric directly onto a three-dimensional form. Instead of building a garment from scratch, students will work over a pre-made, structured bodice base. This base acts as a solid canvas, allowing experienced sewists to skip basic fitting and dive straight into the artistic and practical techniques of high-end fabric manipulation.
What you will learn:
The Step-by-Step Draping Process
Securing the Base: The pre-cut bodice is fitted tightly to the form. This acts as the steady foundation that will support all the creative fabric layers draped on top of it.
Understanding and Controlling the Fabric (Grainline)
Aligning the Threads: The core of draping is understanding how fabric behaves when it hangs in mid-air. Students practice finding the 'grain' (the vertical and horizontal threads of the fabric). They learn how to anchor the fabric so the vertical threads run perfectly straight down the body, preventing the final garment from twisting or pulling.
Working with the Bias: Students explore the diagonal angle of the fabric (the bias), learning how it stretches and flows smoothly over curves like the bust and hips compared to the rigid straight grain.
Manipulating Fabric into Shapes
Pleating and Folding: Once the fabric is anchored, students begin the creative process of shaping it over the bodice base. Students practice creating structured folds, asymmetrical pleats, and gathers. They learn how to pin these folds securely to the underlying bodice so they hold their shape perfectly.
Creating Cowls: Students practice cascading the fabric to create soft, fluid ripples around the neckline, learning how to gauge the weight of the fabric as it hangs.
Releasing Tension: When wrapping fabric around tight curves, it can bunch up. Students learn how to make small, strategic cuts into the fabric edges to release the pulling tension, allowing the material to lie completely flat against the bodice.
Marking and Capturing the Design
Trueing: A drape is temporary until it is recorded. Students learn how to turn their fluid 3D fabric shapes into a permanent design. While the fabric is still pinned to the form, students use chalk or pencils to trace the exact edges of their pleats, seams, and design lines.
Thread Tracing: Students use loose hand-stitches to trace over their chalk lines. This permanently locks the design markings into the fabric before it is unpinned.
Final Construction and Attaching to the Base
Flattening and Smoothing: The final step is bringing the draped layers and the base bodice together into one cohesive piece. The draped fabric is removed from the form and laid flat on a table. Students use curved rulers to smooth out their hand-drawn lines, making sure everything is perfectly symmetrical.
Couture Stitching: The finalized draped layer is placed back over the pre-cut bodice. Students use hidden, delicate hand-stitches to permanently lock the folds and pleats down onto the base bodice, completing a luxury garment.
PLEASE NOTE: this is a c ourse about exploring techniques, not making a final garment. A rare opportunity to explore techniques whilst you have a trained couturier with you.
What is Provided
• Pre-made underbodice and fabric to drape with. • full body dummies • In-class reference samplers to support your understanding of each construction technique. • A supportive sewing studio fully equipped with industrial tools and materials.
What you need to Bring
- dressmaking pins
- fabric scissors
- tape measure
Spots are limited — Book now!
Inclusivity Statement
The Pattern Making Class welcomes participants of all backgrounds, identities, and skill levels,
including trans, non-binary, and gender non-conforming individuals. We strive to create an
inclusive and supportive environment for everyone.